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"My heart would start beating fast and I would start sweating whenever I spotted chador-clad women on the subway. I knew they were the morality police, just by looking at their shoes," Nergis, a 21-year-old Tehran resident, tells The Quint.
"Everyone's out there to stifle our voices. We've been in an open prison since childhood. Why should we live like criminals," she asks.
For days now, Nergis has joined the hundreds of women and men protesting against the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini at Keshavarz Boulevard in Iran's capital.
Popular among university students, Keshavarz Boulevard has been the go-to spot for some of the largest anti-government protests over the years. On the evening of 20 September, to show solidarity with the women across the country and to seek justice for Mahsa, women students burned their headscarves.
The Iranian Police responded with tear gas, rubber bullets, and batons to "punish" the protesters. Nergis was one of the victims.
But despite the crackdown on the protesters, anti-government demonstrations continued for the seventh consecutive day on Thursday, 22 September.
Nergis arrived at the protest site at around 6 pm on 20 September and joined the crowd chanting, "Death to Khamenei," verbally attacking Iran's Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei. Soon afterward, she recalls, the riot police surrounded the protesters and released tear gas to disperse them.
When the police chased them away, some took cover in a park nearby.
In a country like Iran, where a social media post could land you in prison or worse, protesting and chanting death to the Supreme Leader are rare occurrences.
Nergis says, "Mahsa's death has fuelled our fight for freedom. I always protested on social media, but now we've reached a point of no return. We have no fear."
Witnesses confirmed to The Quint that the riot police were patrolling the streets of Tehran until the early hours of 21 September and have been following protesters home. When protesters regrouped that evening, they again held up black scarves and chanted:
Nergis revealed that the riot police once again shot at and beat some of the protesters on their heads. They had gathered at Keshavarz Boulevard as well as other Tehran landmarks like Valiasr Square, Enghelab Square, and Vasal Street.
"Today, the number of protesters was five times more, and so was the oppressive regime's police. More brutal than yesterday," Nergis adds.
Twenty-two-year-old Mahsa, who is an ethnic Kurdish woman, died "suspiciously" after slipping into a coma on 16 September. She, along with several others, was detained by Iran's morality police – Gasht-e Ershad – on 13 September. Mahsa's death shook the country. It has brought together supporters of the Iranian regime, as well as young Iranians, who have been fighting for their freedom of choice.
On 19 September, the protests turned deadly after three protesters were confirmed dead. Although Iranian officials deny opening fire on protesters, deeming the deaths suspicious, one of the protesters, Mehjabin, a medical professional, told The Quint:
Mehjabin is a 46-year-old midwife and a mother of two sons. A native of Isfahan, one of the most conservative cities in the country, Mehjabin had followed the regime's strict hijab rules ever since she was a little girl.
Having moved to Tehran post her wedding in 2007, she noticed that although the women in the capital enjoyed certain liberties, hardliners enforced strict rules on them.
In November 2019, protests erupted across various cities in Iran against the gasoline price hike. According to Amnesty International, at least 304 people were killed.
Government vehicles were torched and millions protested. The country has been on the edge since the uprising, as reports of human rights abuses gained attention across the world. Women activists and critics of the regime have been imprisoned or had to flee.
Since Mahsa's death, protests have spread from the capital across Iran, including two of the holiest cities of the country – Mashhad and Qom. The former is home to the Imam Reza holy shrine (mausoleum) and the world's largest mosque. It is also the birthplace of the Supreme Leader, Ayatollah Khamenei. Qom, known as Iran's Vatican, is the second-holiest city in the country.
Women and men have confronted the police in these cities and protested by burning headscarves. In Sari, a large group took over the town hall and tore down pictures of Iran's first Supreme Leader Ayatollah Khomeini.
Women in Iran have been forced to follow a mandatory hijab code since the Iranian revolution of 1979. For over four decades, Iranian women have had to either follow the rules or be imprisoned.
After four decades, on 5 July 2022, Iranian President Ebrahim Raisi ordered the enforcement of the hijab and chastity law, which requires women to not only cover their heads but also their shoulders and necks.
"I call it the Talibanisation of the Iranian society. Iranian girls are educated and we won't back down. We always dressed modestly, but this new order has just unleashed a new hell on our women. We will burn this regime down, along with our hijabs," says Nergis.
(The author is an independent journalist based out of Paris. An alumna of University College Dublin, she writes about international conflict and war.)
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